Overlooking Stanley (the Falkland Islands’ capital and the southernmost capital city in the world) Tumbledown rises above a ruggedly beautiful landscape of soft peat, punctured by jagged rock and covered in a blanket of coarse grassy bristles.
One of the Islands’ most famous landmarks, there are no signs to guide you from town or help you identify the right rocky outcrop (the Falkland Islands credit their tourists with a good amount of self-reliance); the road simply runs out and you start walking.
Four of us made the climb, but the wind was so strong that it was a solitary experience, conversation was impossible. So when we reached the top, we’d all enjoyed an hour of introspection, making the war memorial – a pile of stones supporting a cross and decorated with plaques – all the more moving.
We climbed down, returning to our Defender to find horses huddled round it, sheltering from the winds.