To mark its 27th "baburthday" (geddit?), Babur has a new tasting menu. Drawing on iconic dishes from generations gone by, it features stylishly gussied up variations on such classics as prawn cocktail and coronation chicken. The main course (venison steak vindaloo) is a little harder to place in the pantheon of great British classics but is – like the other dishes – very good indeed: spicier than the rest but well balanced and pretty as a picture. And to cap it all: dhosas flambéed at the table à la crepe suzette.
The menu is £34.50 with an additional £14.95 for paired drinks – and is highly recommended. Full disclosure: as a regular diner and the first to try the new menu, your correspondent was lucky enough to have last night's meal comped – but he would have loved it anyway.