The Green Chain megawalk challenge

Green Chain is staging a range of events this autumn, including an all-day megawalk along the full length of the chain:

The Green Chain Megawalk
Saturday 29 September 9.15am-6.30pm
Meet at Crystal Palace station at 9.15am

All the way from one end of the Green Chain to the other in one easy go - just 21.5 miles! Average walking pace throughout and you CAN do it. Beautiful landscape, woodland and views throughout. Packed lunch essential. Promoted by Walk London. The walk finishes at Erith station. For enquiries please call Ian Bull at 020 7223 3572.

Click here for the other autumn events (including a walk from Sydenham to Brockley and one through Telegraph Hill) and here for Brockley Kate's Green Chain series.

Brockley Green Chain; part 5 of 5

‘Upright and respectable’

If there are any Goths out there reading this, here’s the walk section for you. It’s mostly graveyards and Victorian furbelows. You’re welcome …

Pass Camberwell New Cemetery – or pop in, if you’re a fan of graveside architecture; this place is still fully in use. George Cornell is buried here – the East End gangster famously shot by the Kray twins in the Blind Beggar. The area is of course heavily associated with the Richardsons - the connoisseur’s gangsters of choice. Forget all that Krays hype, these guys were the real deal. Another overlooked aspect of south-east London life.

After paying your respects, head towards Nunhead Cemetery. Anyone seeking a pint-or-toilet stop can call in at the Waverley Arms just before we reach the main gates.

Wooded paths in Nunhead Cemetery

Nunhead Cemetery deserves its reverent reputation. As one of the Magnificent Seven Victorian London burial grounds, it is one of only two south of the river, and (have you noticed a theme yet?) is definitely the most under-appreciated. It has been aptly called an ‘elegant wilderness’. Gothic memorials, overgrown paths, the glorious riot of nature amid the staid sobriety of the dead – this place has it all. Walk, loiter, photograph and meditate as long as you like, this site could take a day’s walk on its own.

Gothic architecture

When you’re ready to exit, head north to Linden Grove (via the impressive ruined chapel), where we turn right past a series of curious 80s-style bungalows. A loop around and over the Peckham-Lewisham railway line brings us back to BC's core stomping grounds, crossing Drakefell Road into Upper Telegraph Hill Park.

The railway line crossing

The park lies just west of Haberdasher’s Aske’s Hatcham College, apparently the most over-subscribed state secondary in the country. So that explains all the middle-class liberals cluttering up the place. (New Cross being, as we all know, originally called Hatcham.)

This is another long-standing beacon site. Historically known as Plowed Garlic Hill, tennis courts now occupy the precise location. Local tennis enthusiasts are going to have to bite the bullet if the nuclear holocaust ever happens and we have to resort to basic communications systems again. Just saying.

From here, cross Kitto Road to enter the southern section of the park. Lined with stately period houses and on a definite incline, its respectable and orderly air is only partly dented by the controversial skate-park construction activity on its eastern fringe. There’s a pond, a children’s playground, a statue (2008) commemorating Equiano, and a basketball court. This is a neat and respectable park with a Victorian ethos. Very Brockley, in short.

The Equiano statue

At the end of your trip, stop off for a drink in the Brockley Barge. Having replaced a dive which was notorious across south-east London, this Wetherspoons-run hostelry is the subject of much noveau-Brockley ire, which just goes to show how short local memory can be. Many of the area’s longterm residents will affirm that its current incarnation is a massive improvement on its previous occupants, and as such should be strongly supported and encouraged. If nothing else, think of your house price if it were to revert to its former reputation …

The Green Chain logo

Links:
Waverley Arms: on beerintheevening.com
Friends of Nunhead Cemetery: www.fonc.org.uk
Friends of Telegraph Hill Park: www.thehill.org.uk/park
The Hill Station: boldvision.org.uk
Brockley Barge: the Barge

Brockley Green Chain: Part 4

'Wooded Slopes'

So, we’re past the halfway mark; venturing onto the other side of the north-south railway line which divides Brockley so cruelly. From Brockley Rise/Stondon Park, head up past the varied shops and cafes around Honor Oak Station; there are some fine spending opportunities here for those seeking a shopping-stop. Admire the well-kept allotments to the right, then turn off onto One Tree Hill. These wooded slopes played host to Elizabeth I when she stopped off in 1602 to picnic under an oak tree (according to legend). This notable occasion generated the area’s name – ‘the oak of honour’ – but is not its only claim to fame (or a justification for its spelling. This is not the USA; BC disapproves). The hill was used for beacons over the centuries, including signalling threats of invasion during the Spanish Armada and the Napoleonic Wars, and later a telegraph system (or so it says here). It also functioned as an anti-Zeppelin gun emplacement in World War I, the base for which still stands.

This is the only section of the Brockley Green Chain which will appeal to the hill-walkers among you – the stepped route up One Tree Hill offers definite thigh-toning opportunities. This area was converted into a public park after riots greeted an attempt to turn it into a golf course at the turn of the (19th/20th) century.

St Augustine's Church

After passing St Augustines Church, nestled in an atmospheric setting tucked into the woodland halfway up the slope, we top out by the old gun emplacement before turning right to pass a replacement for Queen Elizabeth’s oak. This one was erected in 1905 to replace its greatly-honoured predecessor. This hill is decidedly misleading in its name, by the way: there is definitely more than one tree here.

Queen Elizabeth's replacement oak

Steps lead down northwards to Brenchley Gardens, where we cross the road and enter a slim sliver of park running to the right between the road and a golf course. A storm-stripped tree stump stands proud and mysterious in the middle of the stretch. This area is oddly alienated: lacking local houses, the road runs between parks and a cemetery. More could be done with this stretch of park, we’re just not sure exactly what.

A lone and mysterious tree stump in Brenchley Gardens

This is the only section of the Brockley Green Chain with an indeterminate ending: there isn’t much around here to recommend. We suggest going a little way into route section 5 and then taking a break, if you’re gagging for a pint.

Links:
One Tree Hill is claimed by the Forest Hill Society - they’re probably up for an arm-wrestling contest, if any Brockleyites want to challenge them.
We’re not aware of anyone claiming Brenchley Gardens. Contact us if you want to do so, we’ll back you up; it needs some love.

Brockley Green Chain: Part 3

‘Those who can, hill’

A bitty section, this – lots of skipping around and road walking, I’m afraid. It would be more substantial if we were able to persuade the households circling Brockley Hill Park to convert it from a private park into a public one. Failing that, come the revolution, we’re gunning for you, BHP householders.

In the absence of revolutionary spirit we head instead from the southernmost edge of Ladywell Fields to the bijou Ravensbourne Park Gardens (not to be confused with what has now been re-named Brookmill Park, up in Deptford). This was originally the private park for the local gentry’s estate – it’s slick with private parks round here. Tells you all you need to know about the area, clearly – there is some nice property porn around, for the Kirstie Allsopp wannabes among you. Also, play ‘spot the vintage car’.

The view from Ravensbourne Park Gardens

A quick nip uphill takes you to an alley running into Blythe Hill Park, a wide open hilltop space with great breezy views to north and west. In particular, Prendergast School looms high on the horizon to the north, showing how far you have come since the opening stages of this walk, and the next stages of this walk can be seen to the west. An old Roman Road runs through this park, heading from central London to Lewes in Sussex (or vice versa, we suppose). These days Lewisham luminaries take the place of legions during the annual festival. This park is a great mid-stage place-marker.

On Blythe Hill Fields, looking back towards Hilly Fields

(being foggy at the time, it wasn't the best day for long-distance views)

The route now heads down Codrington Hill toward Honor Oak Station. If you’re doing this walk in two parts, you can catch a bus back to central Brockley from the main road here. For refreshments, we recommend the Chandos, Babur restaurant or Le Querce restaurant, depending on your preference – all are convenient. The restaurants, in particular, make a great lunch stop.

Links:
Friends of Blythe Hill Fields http://www.blythehillfields.org.uk/
The Chandos: http://www.thegoodpubguide.co.uk/pub/view/Chandos-SE23-1LN
Babur: http://www.babur.info/
Le Querce: http://www.hardens.com/az/restaurants/group/g516/le-querce-group.htm

Brockley Green Chain: Part 2

‘Mo money, mo, erm, river’

Suitably refreshed, we step from the tarmac and tannoy of Ladywell Station into the calm of Ladywell Fields. This park is a revelation – your humble author freely admits that it was the greatest discovery while researching this series. Deceptively cosy and trim, it stretches for what feels like miles, and – enchantingly – its character evolves as you pace the distance.

This park just goes on and on. The initial section is a town-style lawn, running alongside the train station and tracks. This gives way to a more rural feel as the river becomes prominent as a feature, before turning practically bucolic in its later stretches, complete with ducks, reed beds, overhanging trees and a broadening green swathe of field. Substantial amounts of public money have been spent here in recent years, and boy, does it deliver.

Cycling network signpost in Ladywell Fields

Emerging onto the northernmost section of the fields, ‘Is this it?!’ is an understandable reaction; this flat grassy expanse is probably most charming when filled with semi-nude sunbathers in summer. Note the cute – and useful – vintage toilets to the right by the rail line, though.
As you move southwards, passing skaters turning acrobatics on a nifty little concrete structure, Lewisham Hospital looms large to your left. Reaching an impressive spiral set of steps, cross the bridge and the river Ravensbourne – admiring the substantial athletics track ahead to your left – to enter the second section of the park.

Modern sculpture, for posing by

Here things take a decidedly au naturel turn. The river channel opens up and becomes more stony; stepping stones offer a varying challenge, depending on the water’s height; and woodpeckers can be heard among the trees. Modern sculpture provides album-cover opportunities a plenty for any local bands who might be seeking inspiration. Take a pew for a while, if you want to rest your feet; the riverside benches are particularly appealing when contemplating the Ravensbourne’s inevitable journey into the great mass of water to its north. The river has broadened out here and can be appreciated in its full glory – flowing from its source south of Bromley up towards the Thames, which it joins at Deptford Creek.

Benches by the river

Reflections

Moving onwards, crossing under a railway bridge, the final third of Ladywell Fields offers its crowning glories: grassy slopes, an orchard, and a pentaque court. More seats, bosky paths and duck-feeding opportunities complete the charms.

A now-rare Dutch Elm tree

Yes, we are going to recommend a pub for each section of the walk – how clever of you to notice. This time, our tip is the Blythe Hill Tavern. It’s a small detour, but not far from our next stop along the route …

Links:

Ladywell Fields;

Blythe Hill Tavern.

Brockley Green Chain: Part 1

So, section 1. If these sections had names, this would probably be called ‘Classic Brockley’, as it showcases two of the area’s best-known green jewels in the SE4 crown – namely, Hilly Fields and Brockley Cemetery.

Our route starts at Brockley’s beating heart – the station. (Obviously if you live locally then you can tailor this to suit your actual starting location.) Head up one of the roads leading off Brockley Road, through the conservation area to the north-west corner of Hilly Fields. This beautiful open space has a proud history, having been common land before becoming a common-or-garden public park. Formerly a slim section of Deptford Common, it has played host to suffragettes’ rallies and was saved from rapacious housing developers by legendary campaigner Octavia Hill, among others.

Our route takes in a generous circle of the park, past the Grade II-listed Prendergast girls’ school and the millennium stone circle, before dipping down – enjoying the extensive views southwards out to Kent – past the meadow grassland to Adelaide Avenue. Here we turn right, then left at the main road to reach the cemetery.

This is actually two graveyards lying next door to each other – one (Brockley) for the historic borough of Deptford, the other (Ladywell) for Lewisham. They were established on land belonging to the Earl of Dartmouth in 1858. Today they are partly overgrown, a haven for wildlife, and a joy to walk through.

Many of the gravestones illustrate Deptford’s strong historic associations with the river Thames, with a variety of naval and merchant trading links mentioned. This is a great illustration of Brockley’s origin as an area of farming and settlement spreading down from the Deptford riverfront – previously we faced northwards and had a decidedly nautical air about us, whereas now our sense of identity is drawn east and south-east, to today’s centres of commerce and governance in Lewisham and Catford (such as they are). Oh for the days of old, eh. Let’s restore our historic river links. (Deptford is very fashionable these days, you know, Guardian-readers.)

After meandering through the cemetery we emerge onto Ladywell Road and pass the site of a former medicinal mineral spring (between Francemary and Phoebeth roads) before paying our respects to the site of the original Lady Well by the station.Those in need of a pit stop can call into the Ladywell Tavern for fine ales and a warm welcome, and then we press onwards …

Links:

Friends of Hilly Fields www.hilly.org.uk
Friends of Brockley & Ladywell Cemeteries www.foblc.org.uk
Ladywell Tavern ladywelltavern.com/

Introducing ... the Brockley Green Chain

London’s network of urban footpaths has become well-known in recent years. In particular, the Capital Ring is regarded as the jewel in the city’s crown, and it encompasses a swathe of south-east London, known as the Green Chain walks.

Now don’t get BC wrong, there are some great routes on the Green Chain. We recommend them to anybody who enjoys walking. But it has to be said that on the whole it’s not really very Brockley. The Green Chain steps into Brockley briefly, right at the end of its route, where it nips up through One Tree Hill to Nunhead Cemetery. But Brockley has many more green spaces which are equally worthy of attention.

And so the idea of a Brockley Green Chain came into being.

BC has dreamt up a walk route which steps straight from Brockley Station – surely the area’s beating heart – through perhaps our best-loved park, Hilly Fields, and on to some of the area’s many other local gems. After crossing over the tracks into Brockley's often-neglected westside, the route brings you back to your starting point again. A classic weekend loop, in other words.

So many people head off to remote and esoteric corners of the capital to spend some of their spare time walking amid congenial surroundings, but how many of those people realise that they could get just as good a walk from their doorstep?

The Brockley Green Chain is ideal for a bit of springtime exercise, and there are plenty of potential stop-offs en route, turning the (approximately) 9-mile path into a full day’s outing.

In short, it runs from Hilly Fields via Ladywell Cemetery to Ladywell Fields, then down to Blythe Hill Fields, across to One Tree Hill, dipping into Brenchley Gardens, then up through Nunhead Cemetery to Telegraph Hill Park and back into central Brockley for a celebratory pint to finish off. Here's our tailor-made map, complete with points of interest and suggestions for refreshments en route:


View Brockley Green Chain walk in a larger map

So, why not give it a try? Make sure to let us know how you get along. Brockley Kate has walked the route from start to finish, and will be covering its delights in a series of blogposts, starting later today.

A few notes, before we begin …

Most of the pubs, cafes and restaurants mentioned in the guide are the author’s subjective recommendation. A couple are slightly off-route; this reflects the author’s personal view of their relative value, in terms of making a detour. We couldn’t possibly mention every venue within a stone’s throw of each part of this walk, even if we wanted to, for practical reasons. So we apologise to any venues omitted, and rely on readers to modify the walk as necessary to incorporate any particular favourites of their own. There’s loads of good stuff out there. If you find somewhere which BC hasn’t already written about on the blog, do tell us and we will rectify.

Incidentally, the quality of Wikipedia entries on these diverse parts of Brockley (and surrounds) is variable at best. Get to work, local residents. Your digital community needs you.

This is an 8-9-10 mile route (distance variable, depending on how much wandering you do in each green space on the route). It can be done as a day walk, split into two, or completed in sections. Really, how long is a piece of string? Make of it what you will, dip in and out as suits. It is intended as inspiration rather than gospel. We do think it is worth doing as a whole if possible, though, simply for the degree of coherence and sense of place which it gives. Feedback is, as ever, welcomed.

The opinions expressed in this series of articles represent the views of Brockley Kate only – so don’t blame Brockley Nick (or Jon) if you don’t like them. Especially if you live near Brockley Hill Park (see part 3).